All Cook Must Study At This Spot’: Unassuming Turkish Dining Spot Earns Fourth on Ranking of London’s Top Food Spots.

Whenever assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble place achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.